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SOAP, CLOUDVEIL SKIRT, BOOT INSERTS - Washing clothes: They sell some soap for washing clothes in most of the little grocery stores that is really, really, good. Made by Genie. Comes in a little blue squeeze bottle. Throw the clothes in the sink with the soap and (really) you don't even need to rub them to get them clean.

Women's clothing: My wife bought a hiking skirt from a company called Cloudveil that is absolutely wonderful. We climbed up Mt. Sainte-Victoire in Provence today and she was bemoaning the fact that it was too cold to wear.

Boot inserts: I suppose that anybody reading your book is smart enough (or enough of an outdoor enthusiast) to know this already. I was shocked to have worn out the inserts to my boots (brand new and purchased here). Turns out, if you use the equipment as intended, it wears out sometimes. . . Don't know how that escaped me. I purchased four different pairs of new inserts and met with varying degrees of failure. Finally, in the hiking/climbing store here in Aix called Les Mousquetaires, I bought some great inserts. Moral of the story is buy inserts from a hiking store with LOTS of arch support or you may end up feeling like somebody beat the underside of your feet with a bat.

– John B., Aix-en-Provence and Seattle, 13 December '01

BUYING AND USING A CELL PHONE IN FRANCE - Cell phones in Europe are different than (most) in the US. They run on a standard called GSM. So what? Well it has a few advantages that might help people traveling.

You can buy a phone, new, in France at a host of places. SFR and Orange (part of France Telecom) sell phones for $50 to $125. You can buy these phones with a "pre-paid" calling card already installed (with about 2 hours of talk time on them.) When the card runs out, you can go to any Tabac and buy another card for your phone. Your number will stay the same, you'll just get more prepaid minutes. So, if I were set on having a phone while I was here (maybe for safety?) I'd buy a cheap portable with a pre-paid card, refill it if I needed to, and chuck it when I was done.

Since the tabacs sell three different types of phone cards (cards for the phone booths, cards with a "scratch off" code bit for making long distance calls, and prepaid portable cards, it's important to be clear about what you want while you're at the tabac. First couple times I went into the tabac to buy a phone booth card, I ended up standing there slack jawed in my lack of comprehension. Probably would have done better to read up a little so I'd have known this stuff here. (For more information about cell phones in Europe see below)

– John B., Seattle and Aix-en-Provence, 6 November '01

SPECIFIC RECOMMENDATIONS (Since June '01 John B. and his wife have been living in France. After an August walk in Normandy and a September walk in Brittany he sent the following equipment information as well as some general comments and map recommendations.)

Things that I think "Rock" and I couldn't do without;
* Stick. No stick in Normandy. Stick in Brittany. Big difference.
* Degree antiperspirant.
* Good boots (did bad boots in Normandy. Bad boots suck.)
* Williams shaving cream; comes in a toothpaste tube! Weighs less than regular shave cream. Can you buy this in the States? Not hard to find in France.
* The "Man-Purse" (as my wife refers to it) which I wear in addition to my pack. This little pack gives me a place to put my map etc.
* Filson cotton trail pants (Filson's been making hunting gear since before the dawn of time. They make great heavy cotton canvas trail pants.)
* The Michellin Green guide (we take about 10 pages copied from other guide books and a copy of the English version of the Mich Green Guide for the area we're visiting. This also has some restaurant and hotel information in case we get stuck (like the time that I reserved a hotel for us the first night 50 miles away from where we were starting because the names of the cities were similar . . . )
* Little gastronomic dictionary. This is AWESOME! (we bought it at the Brentanos in Paris.) Although I speak some French, I've never spent a lot of time learning words for things like "Tripe Pâté. (Andouille.)" If you're not culinarily inclined, simply avoiding things with the work "head" in them is helpful albeit not very exciting.
* Handkerchiefs. I sweat and these things are handy. I keep telling my wife it's because I have significant lean body mass and that muscle generates more heat. She says its 'cause I'm fat and should keep walking. Whatever, bring on the foie gras.
* Buy nuts at the little alimentations (small grocery stores.)
* Camelback (strap it to the back of my bag.) While my wife thinks I look the complete dork with a big old tube hanging off the back of my pack, the utility is hard to argue with. (Bruce, my wife told me either the hat or the Camelback had to go. Hope you're not offended that I picked hydration over the hat.)
* Brooks Brothers "No-Wrinkle" buttondown shirt. Rocks. Perfect for dinner.
* Some "high-tech" plastic hiking/active shirts. These are light and dry really quickly. I've got one from Lowe Alpine and a couple from Louis Agneau (I think.) Bought the Louis Agneau shirts at REI. The Lowe Alpine shirt I bought at a hiking store here. I can rinse these out, let them dry over night, hang them on my bag the next day and they'll be dry (when it's 60 degrees out.).

Things I'm taking on the next trip:
* Four or five clothes pins.
* Some type of mechanism whereby I can manage not to forget the stick everytime we stop. Although this resulted in only one 30 minute detour to retrieve the stick (baton in french) that's largely due to my wife.
* Some powerbars. Not a lot, but turns out food emergencies do happen.
* More faith. While the GR's are sometimes difficult to see on the yellow Michellin map and sometimes aren't clearly marked even on the IGN maps, THERE WILL BE A TRAIL MARKER. :) These people are awesome! Every single time I was about to go into pure panic mode for lack of direction a mark would appear. And thank God. All this walking, mapping, thinking of food and water, etc. That's a fair amount for a poor guy like me to concentrate on! God bless the GR people! This was most true in Normandy between Barfleur and le Havre. Less an issue in Brittany.
* I'm considering buying a black acrylic v-neck sweater. Figure if it's acrylic, I can wear/wash the thing on the trail. Also, it'll be good for wearing out at night.

– John B., Seattle & Aix-en-Provence, 7 October '01

GORETEX – In your book you say that you find that Goretex and other breathable waterproofs don't work for you, as you still get wet inside from sweat. I've had a lot of experience of walking in Britain, where the frequent rain and wind means that umbrellas aren't much use, and consequently a lot of experience with Goretex.

I think your problem may be the clothing you wear underneath, not the Goretex itself. In your book you mention cotton T-shirts, cotton shirts and a turtleneck sweater. For Goretex to work properly, it has to have moisture delivered from the inside in the form of water vapour, which it can then transmit to the outside. It can't transmit liquid water. Cotton tends to hold moisture as liquid water. Consequently cotton clothing worn underneath Goretex gets saturated, and the Goretex cannot get rid of the moisture because it is present in liquid form. Water does evaporate off the cotton surface, but only very slowly, as you no doubt know from trying to dry cotton clothes in hotel rooms. I found that I was much more comfortable when I switched from cotton shirts and wool sweaters to shirts made of synthetic wicking fabric (e.g. Berghaus Active Comfort Layer, Lowe Alpine Dri-flo and similar) and a jacket of Polartec fleece. These fabrics are designed to pick up moisture from the skin, wick it up to the outer surface of the fabric, and then evaporate it as quickly as possible, so presenting the Goretex with water vapour which it can transmit to outside.

You still don't stay 100% dry inside the Goretex, especially if you're working hard on a wet day (e.g. climbing up a Scottish mountain in the rain), as I can tell you from experience, but I find I stay much drier and more comfortable than when I was wearing the same Goretex jacket over a cotton shirt. The wicking shirts also dry overnight if washed out in a hotel bathroom, wrung out thoroughly and hung up, so I found I could manage for our week in Brittany with just one shirt for walking that I washed out every night.

– Carole N., England, 3 June '01

– From BLeF - This all makes great sense. However, for me, the preferred method for staying dry is still hunkering down in a warm café with a good book and a hot grog.

COLD WEATHER GEAR IN THE AUVERGNE, WALKING STICK Mark, proprietor of Walking Tours of France (www.francewalkingtours.com) wrote with some advice following a spring walk in the Auvergne/Aubrac region. He experienced bad weather with snow. For a complete rundown about his walk click here.

So, if you are going to hike in these areas in any month except the summer, be prepared for the worst. If it's too warm, you can always ship your cold weather gear back home. We also found bringing a collapsible hiking pole(s) very handy, especially with snow and fending off bad dogs (occasionally a problem in France). They will fit in most suitcases, though the airlines may ask you check this baggage since it can be used as a weapon. We have been to this area many times, so feel free to contact us via our web site (see above) if you have any questions.

– Mark Beffart, 25 May '01

WATER ON THE TRAIL, COLD-WEATHER GEAR IN THE MOUNTAINS – I and my girlfriend have decided...to walk on some part on GR10 17 June to 1 July. From Banyuls to Canigo.

We woundering if you now how cold the night(s) are going to be and if it's alright to drink the water?

– Edvin & Vanda, 20 May '01

– From BLeF - At that time of the year it should be quite warm (even hot) during the day, but, if you should encounter rain or—at altitude—even snow, it could be dangerously cold. Whenever you walk in the mountains it's best to be prepared for cold weather and snow, though, if you're lucky, you may never need the gear. If you plan to camp at altitude it will, even if the weather is good, be cold at night. I would not drink the water from steams or lakes (getting giardia from grazing sheep and other animals is one of the problems), but good bottled water in light plastic bottles is available and cheap in every grocery store in every village in France. Carry it with you.

CELL PHONES ON THE TRAIL – Do you have any advice on cellphones for use on the Lake Geneva to Nice portion of the GR 5? Specifically, I'm wondering if, for a two month walk,it would be cheaper to rent one in France, buy one in France, or try to find one in the U.S. that will work in France. Does anyone have experience with coverage on that portion of the GR 5? We are thinking it would be handy to have one to phone ahead to see if there is space in a gîte or hotel.

– Elaine G., 10 April '01

– From BLeF - I've never used a cell-phone in Europe, but it does seem that a phone would be a handy thing to have, particularly when walking the GR 5 where accommodations can fill up quickly.

Most US cell phones don't work elsewhere, but there has been one advertised that supposedly works anywhere in the world.(?) I do know that you can rent cell phones in Paris, but, since you'll be there for quite a long time, buying one may prove cheaper. I think the phone advertised in the US works via satellites, so, if there's one of their satellites in place over Europe, you should never be in a place with no connection. The Europe-based phones may (?) be based on local antennas and therefor there may be places in the Alps where there is no connection.(?) I'll post your query in hopes of drawing a response from someone with experience.

For more on buying and using a cell phone in France see above.

CUSTOM-MADE BOOTS – After ongoing troubles with hiking boots, I would like to try a pair of custom-made boots. Any idea where to go in the New York/New Jersey area? (I would go up to New Hampshire if need be.)

– Sue, New York, 13 February '01

– From BLeF - Searching superficially with the google.com website, using the search criteria "Hiking Boots custom-made", I came up with two firms in the New York area that make custom hiking boots: Gary Barlow in Earlville, NY, at www.finecraftgalleries.com/boots/ and Peter Limmer & Sons Inc in Intervale, NH, at www.qualityservices.com/limmer.htm. A thorough search will undoubtedly turn up more.

HEADLAMP, PONCHO, CELL PHONE AND OTHER WINTER GEAR - So my advice to December hikers, is definitely bring a friend and perhaps a cell phone (for safety reasons). Make sure your boots are waterproof and very grippy. Wooly hat and mittens are a must. A rain poncho which covers the pack also very handy. An early start each morning thanks to a head-lamp gives you a chance to get lost and still arrive before dark. 1:50,000 maps, a guidebook—mine was Alan Castle's Hiking the French Gorges—and a good compass very important. And especially, be humble and carefully backtrack the minute you don't see those red and white blazes...Carry enough extra food and water for emergencies.

(For a complete report about Jory's winter walk on the GR 4 in Provence, click here.)

– Jory S., Maine, 20 December '00

TENT AND SLEEPING BAGS IN WINTER - We are committed at this point, flying over on January 23rd and staying through the end of March.

One thing we are seriously considering as a margin of safety is to carry our smallest tent (the coffin) and a couple of our lighter sleeping bags. The combination would add about 4 lbs. each to our packs, still far under what we are accustomed to, but 4 lbs is 4 lbs. That combination with our standard winter hiking gear would keep us reasonably comfortable and safe if we needed it. Given the time of year and that we don't have any experience with the area, we think that margin of safety is the penance we might have to pay. (For more about Donald & Joanne's walking plans, click here)

– Donald & Joanne, 12 December '00

PACKING LIST FROM WALKERS WHO CAMPED OUT - Tanya and Steve walked for a week in Normandy this past August. Here's their packing list. To see their full post-trip report click here.

Our packing list:
tent
sleeping bags
inflatable pillow
water filter (which we didn't use)
Campingaz stove (which we used to cook ravioli, yuck!)
hiking boots
sport sandals
pair convertable pants
pair good pants
"puffy" vest
long sleeve "good" shirt
two tank tops
two tshirts
three prs. undies
two prs. socks.
toiletries
camera equipment
tripod (heavy, but incredibly useful!)
hand towel

I'm sure there's more, but I really can't think right now. We felt overloaded and ended up throwing out half of our clothes (the list...is the condensed version) an hour into the hike.

– Tanya, Seattle, 27 October '00

CAMPING STOVES USED IN FRANCE, WATER FILTER - We were just wondering if you know what the most available stove fuel is in France? We want to buy a single-burner style stove for hiking, but we are not sure what type of fuels are available in France.

– Tanya and Steve, Seattle, 16 July '00

– After-Trip Message from Tanya, 27, 28 October '00 -
Our Packing list...
Campingaz stove (which we used to cook ravioli, yuck!)

We actually bought our campingaz stove from REI here in Seattle for a very reasonable price of $25!! The gas is white gas—which is blue canisters found all over in France. Campingaz and Coleman are the same company—the fuel is the same, just a different thread size to screw into the burner. We found the campingaz fuel in the smallest of "Shopi's" in France. Definitly glad we brought it! We ate some wonderful bacon one morning to compliment a baguette. The one peice of equipment I wouldn't recomment is a water filter. The bottled water is about $.15 for 1.5 liters of water, which is found everywhere!!!! We would buy 4-6 bottles a day and drink it all between the two of us!

CUTTING BOARD, MAGNIFYING GLASS & MOLE SKIN – Your clothing list was very good and we managed to keep our packs with lunch and water at 20 and 18 pounds (I should add that we are old backpackers and know about heavy packs). We added one wonderful item—a tiny thin wooden cutting board (4X6") for slicing lunch food. We had earlier discovered how useful this was.

Incidentally on some of the older blue topo maps the Grande Randonnee trails do not show up as clearly (they're orange) as they do on the newer where they are red. For aged folk, maybe also for younger, a magnifying glass was a key and light addition to map packet!

One other tip for sore-foot walkers: mole skin—whatever the name in French—is apparently unavailable.We asked for it in many pharmacies to no avail. Other Dr. Scholl's products or their equivalent are available.

– Bob & Liz, Corvallis, Oregon, 25 June ‘00

ONLINE MAGAZINE ABOUT HIKING/WALKING EQUIPMENT – I've just run across an online magazine called Trailwalk at www.trailwalk.com that discusses packs, boots, socks, etc. in exhaustive detail. Just the entry "If the boot fits..." in the "Footwear" section makes a visit well worthwhile. This site along with www.rei.com, www.gearfinder.com and www.gorp.com/ and will give you more information than you may want. These are must-visit sites before you buy boots, a pack or raingear for your walk.

– BLeF, 2 June '00

BOOT INSERTS – ...the path from Grasse to Entrevaux contains a lot of coarse, rough gravel, and I bruised the sole of a foot, in spite of rather heavy-duty boots. I would recommend shoe inserts like "Superfeet" for additional protection.

– M.R., 30 May '00

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LIGHT WEIGHT BINOCULARS FOR BIRD WATCHING -
Thinking of weigh–t.

Backpack weight that is, not yours or mine!

I was lucky enough to walk in the Beaujolais area of France some years ago and so I thought that the following brief information might help other amateur bird watchers.

Because of considerations about surviving 2+ weeks of walking with a backpack I left my good binoculars behind, something that I have never done before. I of course lamented their absence for my whole trip, but not the lighter pack! When I returned I did some research on backpack-weight binoculars and found some that have been invaluable. I had previously been critical of those tiny 8 and 10x20 folding units but I found a pair of Swarovsky 8x20 glasses which have bright lenses (the brightest of the ones I tried) and with a bit of getting used to have been an acceptable substitute for heavier 10x40 and 8x30 glasses. Not cheap but well worth it.

Wanted to let you know how much I have enjoyed logging on to your site, you have done a great deal of work and updates since I last logged on. The photos also capture the colours and flavour of rural France!

A.F., Washington State, 13 March '00

PACKING LIST - Starting in April '00, Jeff, an experienced backpacker from Los Angeles, walked the full length of the GR 5 from the Netherlands to the Mediterranean. He spent 4 and 1/2 months on the trail. At the start of his walk his total pack weight was 30 pounds and at the end it had climbed to about 40 pounds. This is about half to twice again as heavy as I would want to carry, but he traversed the length of the Vosges, Jura and French Alp chains, so he encountered extremes in weather that walkers on the flat usually don’t have to deal with. Jeff shared his pre- and post-trip packing list (both are below), complete with brand names. He also arranged for replenishables to be sent to prearranged pick-up points. For more about his trip see "Jeff's GR 5 Walk" on the Specific News From & About the Paths page. - BLeF

Jeff's pre-trip packing list:

Gregory gravity pack (3200cu)
Water proof pack cover
Goretex shell jacket (North Face)
Goretex shell pants (North Face)
Waterproof collapsible hat (for the first month anyway)
4 pair hiking socks and liners (Thorlo)
4 pair synthetic underwear (patagonia)
3 pair convertible pants (two to rotate, one for "clean" times) (North Face)
1 pair shorts (to sleep in) (North Face)
Light tennis shoes (for morn and eve - 'non boot' after hike is must for me)
Flip flop sandles (super lightweight for showering)
Silk sleep sack
Light weight top and bottom synthetic thermals (Patagonia)
Warm long sleeve shirt(North Face)
Pollo shirt (for "clean" times) (North Face)
2 synthetic t shirts (North Face)
28 rolls film (more will be sent)
Lightweight point and shoot camera -with extra batteries
Journal and pen
Compass
Maps
Lightweight pack towel
Knife
Small headlamp with extra batteries
Water bladder with drink tube (I drink LOTS of water when I walk)
Cheap watch
Sunglasses
French Phrase book
Address book (probably 2 pieces of paper)
Pack "safe"
Small medical kit
Corkscrew (of course!!)
1 liter Lexan bottle (for any non water liquids)
2 extra thick garbage liners
Money belt
Hygiene Kit including:
-Moleskin
-Lip Balm
-Extra shoe laces

Jeff, Los Angeles, 29 Feb '00

After completing his walk Jeff sent the following information about the equipment he carried as well as a contents list of his pack at the end of his walk:

Things I sent home: I did send items home. I would generally send home each topoguide when I had completed that section and also the set of 1/100,000 over view maps that I was carrying. (It was nice to be able to see the surrounding areas that I was walking through, but, these were generally not necessary and an extravagant expense and weight for the frugal traveller.)

Things I wish I had brough along: I definitely wish I had brought a small lightweight tent and a 1 litre pan and stove. I prefer the MSR Whisperlight stove, but, in France the type with the gaz cartridges seemed to be much more available for getting fuel.

Pack weight: I never did get an ending pack weight. It was heavier than I would have liked to be, but, obviously I got used to it. In the end when I was carrying a sleeping bag, a bivy sack, and a sleeping pad, additionally, the food bag started getting bigger through the Alps section. I would guess that I was probably carrying around 18 kilos (40 pounds). I would say that I was generally carrying about the same weight as others I ran into on the trail. My pack was smaller than some others, but was pretty filled up. It was a 50 litre pack.

Gear:
My boots (Zablerlan) felt great, but, I had virtually no sole left on them and was getting large cracks in the sides (from lack of proper routine conditioning). When I was in Chamonix I looked at and tried on several different boots (the back-up boots that I had sent myself turned out to not look as good as I thought when I sent them). I couldn't find boots that seemed rugged enough, and the ones that were would require some breaking-in time that I didn't have. I finally opted to re-sole the boots that I had and would just wait for them. It was the right decision. I found a cobbler who did them in 1 day. The re-soleing and fixing a large crack cost about 300 FF. I liked Chamonix also, so it was a good excuse to stay another night.

My backpack, "Gregory Gravity," shoulder strap harness broke away from the backplate. Of course this happened in the rain. I was near Wasserbillig, Luxembourg, (day 33) and ended up taking a train to Luxembourg City thinking that it would be my best bet for repair or replacement. I found the only Gregory distributor in Luxembourg there (B.M. Sports Services, 83 Rue De Hollerich). Yves Marchal was there and went way out of his way to help me get another one ASAP. To expediate the change over he sent me to his friends store (Viking Adventures, Paulinstrasse 25) in Trier, Germany, where with the help of Invia Importers, Mr. Volken Winter had another gravity pack for me in 24 hours!!! A big plus using gear with a lifetime warranty. The whole exchage was done without charge and I was able to keep my hip belt which was fitting perfectly. A short train ride back to Wasserbillig and I was back on the trail. I had wanted to see Luxembourg City anyway and Trier turned out to be a very nice place to see for part of the day also. I guess things do happen for a reason!

I went through two full sets (3 pair per set) of socks during my walk.

I found my headlamp to be very convenient over a flashlight as it frees up your hands and is much easier for hiking in the dark. I didn't do that to often, but, when the occasion came, it was nice. I myself prefer the "Petzel Micro" which runs on 2 AA batteries.

I myself like Sierra Designs tents. The Sierra Designs "Clip Flashlight" is a good one for a single person (rated for two, but, it is a tight fit) This tent is under 4 lbs. The Marmot "Eclipse" looks to be a good one for a single person as well and is also under 4 lbs. The Sierra Designs "Light Year CD" is definitely only for one. It is only 3 lbs.

I mostly us a North Face"Super Kazo" sleeping bag. It is a very tight fit and some may not like the fact that it is down filled, but, it is only around 2 lbs and with a compression stuff sack it gets smaller than a basketball. I always use the "Ultra Light Thermarest" by Cascade Designs for my sleeping pad.

I prefer the MSR "Whisperlight International" stove; it is very durable and reliable. For France I would use the "Gaz" system, though, since the fuel is easy to find in nearly every campground.

What Jeff ended up carrying at the end of his walk:

50 liter internal frame backpack
Pack rain cover
Journal with 1 pen
Sunglasses with case
Compass
1/100,000 overview maps (not needed)
Topo guides (with maps inside)
Headlamp (with one spare set of batteries and one spare bulb)
Camera
Film (lots)
Snow hat - ski type (rarely used as ahat but was used as a pillow)
Sun hat (I just used a baseball type)
2 synthetic T shirts (fairly quick drying)
1 long sleeve shirt
2 pair of convertible hiking pants
3 pair hiking socks (medium weight)
3 pair quick dry underwear
Top and bottom thermal underwear (lightweight)
Lightweight tennis shoes (I prefer to not wear boots when not hiking)
2 heavy duty garbage liners (one to line inside of pack)
Personal hygiene kit (with medications)
Goretex Jacket
Goretex Pants
Lightweight down sleeping bag with compression stuff sack
Thermarest sleeping mat
Bivy sack
Heavy-weight plastic spoon
1 litre nalgine bottle
Small Swiss army knife
Lightweight very sharp knife for bread

Basic food bag containing:
Honey, Peanut butter, cheese, trail mix, dried soups, tuna, bread, fiber bars, chocolate, and fruit

Approximate total weight with food bag between 18 and 20 kilos (40 to 45 pounds).

Jeff, Zurich, Switzerland, 17 January '01

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PACKING LIGHT - Among the best bits of advice my wife and I took away from Bruce LeFavour's excellent book (we walked in Provence, from Fontaine-de-Vaucluse to Sisteron, over the course of ten days) was his encouragement to pack light. Very light. We were dubious about the notion that we could pack just one set of "nice" travel clothes and still feel comfortable in 2- and 3-star restaurants. But as LeFavour writes, good hiking boots—particularly if they are black—clean up very well, and we fit right in at even the best places with our (good) turtlenecks, trousers and jackets. We packed light; next time we'll pack even lighter.

D.G., Garrison, NY, 29 Feb '00

CLOTHES, LACES & COMPASS - I walked in the Dordogne from Sept 4 -10 with my two sons age 21 & 23. We planned to walk for 10 days but lasted only 6. Partly inexperience and partly my sons wanted to go to the Cote d'Azur (Nice). The first misconception about the trip was clothing. We each packed 20-22 pounds of clothing and should have packed 11 or 12 pounds.It would have helped us to walk more days. We could have skipped any dress items at all as well as dress shoes. We met French hikers on the GR and I might add older hikers 65-68 years old who hiked us in the ground. They were all wearing shorts and T's that wicked body moisture. They had clothing suitable for hiking, and they didn't have any dress clothes at all. They hiked gîte to gîte, and they looked liked any sport person who bikes or hikes here in the US.

The next unanticipated common sense idea that went past me was lacing up my boots on successive days out on the trail. I laced up the boots as tightly as I did on successive days as on first day.. Wrong, wrong, wrong. As your feet expand after the first day of hiking you lace up the boots a bit looser and a bit looser so that your feet can accommodate the 1/2 size larger than I bought. Of course, I wouldn't loosen the laces so that my feet slide around in the boots, but gradually loosening daily saves a lot of pain.

Take a compass. Against popular opinon you do get turned around. You don't need anything fancy, but it was a great help. Also ask where the trail goes. You can go for miles and have the trail well marked and go for many miles without seeing a marker. It is fun to orient yourself to the terrain, but you can get lost quickly and the people near the trail know it well.

Eric, 1 Jan '00

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SCARF - Concerning packing layering gear for cold or windy days, a SCARF is indispensable. Silk or fleece long enough to go around the neck or even up over the head & ears or nose & face is a great, light, packable, accessory. Easy to remove as you get warm walking—and I prefer it to a turtle neck by far. My favorite warm items for layering are a T-shirt, long sleeve T-shirt, fleece or wool sweater (good even when wet), goretex parka with front zip and underarm zipper vents, scarf (& mittens if you plan to use a walking stick.) For the legs, I personally don't like rain pants but wear my shorts & just bundle up on top. That way I don't sweat myself damp while hiking. Also my pants don't get wet & heavy and I can put them on as soon as I stop. If it is cold and dry I might wear loose, light-weight, long, cotton pants (OR a skirt believe it or not). In instances where it is really cold AND wet I can understand a person wanting rain pants. Hopefully France in the summer won't do that to you!

N.L., Idaho, 29 Dec '99

e-mail your questions and comments to walk@franceonfoot.com

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