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CLICK TO VIEW THESE TOPICS: UPDATES MAIN PAGE *** GENERAL UPDATES ABOUT WALKING IN FRANCE SPECIFIC NEWS FROM & ABOUT THE PATHS (GRs) CLOTHING & EQUIPMENT *** MAPS & GUIDEBOOKS RESTAURANTS & ACCOMMODATIONS SITE CONTENTS *** OVERVIEW *** LINKS *** ARCHIVE *** HOME |
QUESTIONS & QUERIES: SHORT WALK FROM CLERMONT FERRAND? - We would like to come to the Auvergne region next week for a week's holiday which will involve some walking.Can anybody advise us on whether there are suitable walks of approximately 2-3 days duration, ideally starting from a place which can easily be reached from Clermont Ferrand by public transport and, ideally ending in Le Puy en Velay? For example, would it be feasible to follow GR 412 from Langeac to Monistrol, and GR 65 from Monistrol to Le Puy? Are there any campsites on this route? Or could anybody make alternative suggestions for a 2 or 3 day walk? Many thanks Lisa Evans, UK, 20 July '03 THE EASTERN PYRENEES? - One last deliberation which has arisen whilst planning our hiking schedule. How long should it take to hike from Mount Louis to the Med.?– Michael C., England, 9 May '02 SANDALS ON THE TRAIL, ONLINE MAP OF THE COMPOSTELLE TRAIL? - I am writing from South Africa and wondering if I can do two weeks of the Pilgrim's Trail in SW France using my Ecco river runner type sandals and leave the boots behind. I want to follow the advice of a light pack if possible. We will be walking in mid-June. Also, I have been unable to find a detailed map of the Pilgrim's Trail (St. Jacques) to refer to - thus am very vague about the terrain. Our friends from the States are already there and in charge of the itinerary. Can you refer me to a map over the internet? – Hilary, Knysna, South Africa, 8 May '02 – Joseph H., Texas, 7 April '02 BUYING GUIDEBOOKS ON THE CÔTE D'AZUR? - I have heard from the WalkingFrance folks in Atlanta that they can get the Gîtes guide, and I also found it on Amazon France. Amazon's version was 1998, Walking France's supplier had July 2000. So I'm guessing perhaps a new version will come out around July 2002, when I will be arriving in Cannes-Grasse. So then my question is: where in Provence can one get a great selection of such guidebooks? I've seen Aix mentioned on your site. I'd love to read about a shop in Nice, Cannes or Grasse that would be likely to carry a new Gîtes Refuges France et Frontières as soon as it comes out (if it does). – Norman B., Daytona Beach, FL, 24 March '02 DIJON TO BEAUNE VIA THE VINEYARDS? - Got the Book. Got the 'Bleu' Maps covering Dijon to Beaune. Can't help noticing that by following the GR's, though, you miss most of the major villages. So, Question: Can I assume I could probably walk village to village using regional/local trails, obtaining local maps and info along the way?– Mike & May, Vancouver, Canada, 17 March '02 – Answer from John B., Seattle and Nice, 20 March '02 - My wife and I spent two weeks walking in Burgundy in October; wonderful. Can't put my finger on my map at present, but we took the bus south from Dijon to (I think) Chambertin then a cab into the hills of Chamboeuf where we stayed in a Chambre d'Hote. I'm not sure if you could walk from Dijon to Beaune, but my sense is maybe. I think a better bet would have been to start from Fixin. Generally, the Cote d'Or (Gold Coast) in Burgundy consists of the valley of Burgundy and a low (500M) hill range to the west of the valley. Both the valley and the hills run north south (basically.) The trail is about 3 to 5 kilometers off the N74 or national highway. The highway runs through the towns. Generally, this is good. Challenge you face is that you'll likely need to come down out of the hills at night find a place to sleep and eat. Once you're past or south of the Cote d'Or (roughly 75KM) towns are easier to come by. You might consider doing your walk and then, when done, spending a couple days touring the area by car (if you're into wine.) One thing that I wish I'd done a better job of is taking photos of the lavoirs or community washing basis that exist all over France, but there is a preponderance of them in Burgundy. They're wonderful. In terms of maps, the IGN puts out a "Green" map that is perfect for planning your trip; 1cm = 1km. Not detailed enough for the walk itself, but great for coming up with a plan. www.ign.fr has info in the export section on their agent in the US. PROVENCE & THE SOUTH IN JULY & AUGUST? - Is there anyone out there who has done a walking tour in Provence in July or August? Is it possible to find rural accommodations along the way, or is everything really booked? Also, how hot is it? Any special suggestions? I am particularly interested in the area around Toulouse, as well as the Riviera and points in between.– Ellen, 17 March '02 – From BLeF - It would be very difficult to do a walking tour in the south of France during July and August. Accommodations are jammed with vacationers, it's extremely hot and, depending on weather conditions, some or all trails may be closed due to high fire danger. – Answer from John B., Seattle and Nice, 20 March '02 - I concur. Hard to figure out and hotter than blazes. Lots of closed trails because of fires etc. Better July/august hike would be in Brittany or Normandy. July is better than August. If you have to go in August, go during the first half. Aug 15 is the epicenter of vacation in France. We walked the Normandy coast in August and, it was doable, but included some cab rides to get to where we were staying. September in Provence would be better. Weather can be a little radical; like hot or chilly. Generally, it should be good though. I'd think about doing the GR 9. Fly into Marseille, take the shuttle bus to Aix-en-Provence. Stay in the Aquabella in Aix, get a cab in the morning to either Jouques or Vauvenarges (10 and 20KM respectively.) Head south toward the Côte d'Azur. You'll cross Mte Sainte Victoire. If you can find a way to stay and eat at the Relais Ste Victoire in Beaurecueil outside of Aix, you'll not be disappointed. Of the dozens of restaurants we've eaten at in France, this is one of my favorites. . . And a Michelin star to boot! INTERNET CAFES ON THE GR 5? - Do you have any information as to the availability of internet cafes of the like along the route of the GR 5?If all goes well I'll walk the whole thing this time and I'd like to have the option of using email to keep in touch with the home front instead of using the phone exclusively. – MJM, 11 March '02 – From BLeF - Two years ago "Jeff" (see his entries on "Alps" section of the "Specific News" page) walked the full length of the GR 5. He said that internet cafes were few and far between, particularly in the Alpine sections. But things may have changed. The site http://www.kiosek.com/eurocybercafes/hfra.html lists 93 internet cafes in France plus a few more that are e-mail only, but very few are in towns that are actually on the GR 5 - Nancy, Mulhouse, Nice and perhaps a few others. For the cyber-cafes in Belgium, the Netherlands and Switzerland go to http://www.kiosek.com/eurocybercafes/e_pages.html An easier (but perhaps philosophically less attractive) option might be to rent or even buy a European cell phone? See "Contents" on the site for "cell phone" discussions. THE BEARN IN THE PYRENNEES? - My wife and I are planning a walking holiday this August in the Bearn area of the Pyrennees. We'd like to know whether you can get up to the GR10 via the Val Aspe depending only on public transport and staying in gîtes d'étape along the way. Does anyone have any recommendations re lodgings and maps to consult? – John M., Hong Kong, 10 March '02 GUIDEBOOK IN ENGLISH FOR AREA AROUND SARLAT? - Is there a guide in English which covers the area around Sarlat? What walking maps would you recommend?– Derek O., Scotland, 2 March '02 – From BLeF - I know of only one book in English that covers the area near Sarlat: Holiday Walks in the Dordogne published in the UK by Sima Press (http://www.sigmapress.co.uk). I have also found the IGN 1:125,000 Découverte Régionale Dordogne map useful for general planning. When actually on the trail, I always use the superb IGN 1:25,000 blue maps. GUIDES FOR FIGEAC, JARDIN DU SEGALA, QUERCY AND THE NATIONAL PARK? - I have just received this reply from FFRP to my question (below). It confirms what I had thought. However it is not very helpful. My sister now lives in Cardaillac, and I want to buy her a present of walking guides for her immediate area, for the GR 6 Figeac-Souillac especially, and walks starting from Figeac into the Jardin du Segala, Quercy and the National Park. I am not having much luck with alapage and amazon.fr. Can (anyone) advise me?Question posed to the FFRP: Why can't I find topo guide GR 6, #164, Figeac-Les Eyzies? Does it no longer exist? Is there another topo-guide for GR 6 in this area (Figeac-Cardaillac-Les Eyzies) Thank you for your help Response from the FFRP: Le topoguide Figeac-Les Eyzies GR 6 n'est plus disponible. Dans la région, on trouve le GR 6/36 décrit dans le topoguide "Traversée du Périgord" reférence . 321 : Angoulème, Les Eyzies, Cahors.... [The topo guide Figeac-Les Eyzies GR 6 is no longer available. In the region you can find the GRs 6/36 described in topo guide # 321, Angoulème-Les Eyzies-Cahors.] – Sara M, London, England, 25 February '02 THE COMPOSTELLA TRAIL: ACCOMMODATIONS BETWEEN CAHORS & MONTCUQ, TRAIN & BUS SCHEDULES? - Starting in May my wife and I plan to walk the GR 65 or Compestello Road from Le Puy en Velay to Roncesvalles. Raju's book on the subject is excellent. However, she gives the route between Cahors and Montcuq as about 32k without a place to stay. My wife has rheumatoid arthritis and that day may be a little rough for her. Can anyone help us with more recent information about accommodations on that stretch of the trail. Also, many people have expressed interest about meeting us for part of the journey. Raju is good about mentioning train stations in her book, but is there a website that may help us with local train and bus schedules? We need help planning how our friends can meet us. And finally, your links often portray and discuss the Compestello Trail but none that I found mention the 100 miles of the walk approaching Roncesvalles. Is this part of the route boring? I can't imagine any part of France like that. Can anyone help us here? – Mark L., San Antonio, Texas, 19 February '02 – Answer from Chris G., 19 March '02 - There is a very good private gîte at Lascabanes 23 kms from Cahors.It is modern and occupies the old Presbytery.There were in August 2000 two chambres d'hôtes open in the same village.An excellent Pilgrim Guide for the GR 65 is published by the Confratenity of St James in the UK.These can be ordered from their web-site. (See "Links" page on this site.) GITES GUIDES FOR SOUTHERN ALPS? - I've looked at the Gîtes-Refuges web site for Alpes Maritimes and was pleased to find some accommodations not mentioned in the last Gîtes guide. But I picked up a brochure in 2000 for gîtes d'étape "Rando Plume" for the Pyrenees, which had more accommodations than the guidebook. When I walked east from Foix on the Sentier Cathare, I found more gîtes in the villages than were listed in either guide, map, or brochure. So my question is, are there other brochures for Alpes Maritimes, GR 4, Moyen Tinée, GR 52, Mercantour etc. that would mention more accommodations up into the alps and over into the Valdieri region of Italy. I'd love to not have to sleep out at all next July when I walk there for 2-3 weeks. – Norman B., 14 February '02, Daytona Beach, Florida – From BLeF - I would suggest that you buy the Rando Editions book, Gîtes d'étape Refuges, France et Frontieres, which seems to list more gîtes and refuges than the Gîtes de France guidebook, Gîtes d'étape et de Séjour. As the title suggests, it also covers the accommodations in the border areas of neighboring countries. You may be able to purchase the book from a store here in the US like Walking Tours of France or any of the other stores listed on my "Links" page. Failing that you could go to Amazon in France. CHEMIN DES GRANDS CRU IN BURGUNDY? - Has anyone walked the GRP Chemin des Grands Crus de Bourgogne described in the FFRP topo guide "La Cote d'Or a pied"? If so, we'd love to benefit from your experience. Also, does anyone know if this trail has been extended from Nuit-Saint-Georges to Beaune?– Lisa & Dennis, San Francisco, CA, 8 February '02 – From BLeF - The latest map I have (IGN Top 100 #37, Dijon Tournus, 1:100,000, 1 April '99) does not show any extension. You could of course take a taxi or walk off-GR to the GR 76 up in the hills. This trail would lead you back down to Aloxe-Corton and, eventually in Pommard, to a point only a few kilometers from downtown Beaune. CASTELLANE TO AVIGNON IN APRIL? - A group of us (7) Canucks will be walking (hiking) basically from Castellane to Avignon—with bus/cab here or there. Has anyone any good info on this area—Gorges de Verdon, Moustiers, Rougon, Gordes etc and also Mt Ventoux? Also would be most interested if anyone else has hiked there in April and could give us some average weather & temps' for that time of year.– M.N., Canada, 7 February '02 – Answer from Mark Beffart, Walking Tours of France, 23 February '02 -The FFRP has a guide that covers the Luberon section east of Avignon which include Gordes and Mt-Ventoux, and another guide for the Gorges de Verdon. – Answer from Chris G, 13 March '02 - Two books which would be very helpful are Walking the French Gorges-Trails Through Provence and the Ardeche by Alan Castle, Cicerone Press. This was published about 10 years ago but covers the area concerned in good detail. The FFRP topo-guideNo. 401 Haute Provence par Gorges du Verdon also covers the GR 4 for most of the route envisaged. Two web-sites containing information re the towns and villages en route, accommodation etc are www.provenceweb.fr and www.beyond.fr. Friends and I plan to walk from Grasse to Mount Ventoux in June 2002 so any information from the Canadians would be useful for us. – Further comment from BLeF - The provenceweb site mentioned above is a superb resource for finding lodging—htoels and chambres-d'hôtes—anywhere in Provence. WALKS NEAR ANGOULEME IN THE CHARENTE? - We are planning to stay in June in a chateau in the Charente countryside close to the centre of Charras, 30km from Angouleme. Is it a walking area, will we find plenty of footpaths and trails thereabouts?– Peter J., 2 January '02 – Answer from Mark Beffart, Walking Tours of France, (http://www.francewalkingtours.com), 8 January '02 - There is a GRP trail that circles Angouleme and the GR 36 and GR 4 pass near it. There is a FFRP guide for the GR 36 covering the section near here. SEEKING A GUIDEBOOK, ADVICE FOR FEBRUARY WALK ON THE GR 51 IN PROVENCE? - I urgently need a copy. It's (the FFRP topo-guide - BLeF) not published anymore. Can you advise please?– Paul, London, England, 2 January '02, – Answer from Mark Beffart, Walking Tours of France, (http://www.francewalkingtours.com), 8 January '02 - The FFRP used to put out a title called Balcons de La Mediterranée (#506). It was listed in their 1999 catalog, but not in 2000, 2001 so I am assuming that the FFRP has chosen not to publish it anymore. Check used book stores or outdoor equipment stores in Paris, elsewhere. – Another question from Paul, 19 January '02 - I contacted every travel/map shop in the UK (including second-hand ones) and still failed to locate the relevant topo guide. Could I post a more general question please on the site? It's simply to get any general advice (accommmodation, timings, difficult or unclear parts of the route etc.) from anyone who's walked the GR 51 Toulon-Cannes. I'll be leaving in about a month. – Answer from John B., Nice and Seattle, 21 January '02 - I've not pulled together the info for Paul and his trip. In looking at his post however, it occurs to me that he's walking from Toulon to Cannes (or vice versa.) I walked from Nice to Menton. Don't think I'd have much for him that would be helpful. If he's having a tough time tracking down maps, have him give the folks at Goulard a call here in Aix. They have all the IGN maps and have been terrific. Librarie Goulard 37, Cours Mirabeau 13100, Aix-en-Provence Telephone (from the states) 011 33 4 42 27 66 47 Fax (from the states) 011 33 4 42 27 27 27 Email: librairie-goulard@wanadoo.fr I did find this however: http://www.beyond.fr/sports/hiBalcony.html Depending on his physical condition and my experience in the mountains, my advice...would be to plan on about 15K days. Push for longer 20K days if needed. Avoid longer days. Daylight is an issue (duh) and I found climbing 2100 feet in a day a fairly rigorous deal. I'm not doubtful that he's in better shape than me, but given that it's cold and walking on the roads of Provence/Côte d'Azur in the dark is suicidal those are my recommendations. Having a bit of a drought here apparently. Weather's been fantastic! No snow in the mountains... It was 16.5C in Nice today. WALKS, ACCOMMODATIONS AND SHERPA SERVICES IN THE DORDOGNE? - We are interested in using the GR system in the Dordogne region and would like to chat with anyone who has experience with the trail and accommodations in that area. We are also interested in finding a "sherpa type" luggage service, similar to those in the UK for the Coast to Coast walk, which could transport our packs from one night's lodging to the next. Does anyone know of such a service? Any information would be appreciated.– Tom G., Alaska, 25 December '01 – From BLeF - The firm Chemins d'Europe offers just such a service in the Dordogne. BASE OF OPERATIONS IN THE PYRENEES? - I am interested in going hiking in the Pyrenees. I would like to stay at a small, atmospheric Inn conveniently located to walking trails, and do day hikes. I will be travelling from Paris, and wonder if you could recommend towns that are accessible by train that would be good "bases of operation".– Carolyn E., New York, 21 December '01 – From BLeF - I have no personal experience here, but I have read of a place that's high on my must-visit list. Issue #46, November 2000, of the magazine Saveur had a long article about a small region called the Cerdagne (Cerdanya in Catalan), which is right up against the Spanish border in the Eastern Pyrenees. One of the places featured in the article was the nine-room inn called Cal Pai in the tiny (89 inhabitants) town of Eyne. This simple but attractive bath-down-the-hall place charged, when the article was written, only $29 per person, and the price included breakfast and a dinner made by the proprietor, often from ingredients she herself foraged from the hills. The inn caters specifically to walkers. Perpignan is the closest French city with train service. If you go, the balance of your trip to Cal Pai would probably have to be by bus, though the article suggests renting a car. GLOBAL POSITIONING SYSTEMS or GPS? - My wife and I will be walking one of the Grande Randonnée next spring and wondered if anyone has any experience using a GPS while walking. Are there detailed maps of the GR that have geographic grids? If so, what type of coordinate system is used?– Allan B.,, 19 November '01 – From BLeF - There are indeed excellent detailed maps (1:25,000) published by the IGN, the French government mapping service. In fact, I believe that these maps are so detailed and well done that they make carting along and using a GPS system completely unnecessary. As an added insurance against getting lost the GR and GRP trails are very well marked. But, be that as it may, I did a little research on the internet. On the website http://www.ign.fr/fr/GP/cartes/utilcarte/carteGPS.html you'll find a detailed explanation (if you read French) of the correspondence or the lack thereof of French 1:25,000 IGN blue maps and the GPS system. To summarize the information on that page (as best as I can understand it), it seems that prior to 1 March '99 the French maps were not "WGS84" compatible. In other words they didn't work with GPS unless you were willing to do a lot of translating between systems to find your exact location (a process which is explained on that web page as well). But all blue maps edited or re-edited after that date carry "kilometer crosshatching UTM/WGS84" that, apparently, allows you to use the blue maps with a GPS locator. BEWARE: Never having used GPS,I may have all this wrong. Also, on that page there's an ominous sentence: "C'est le récepteur GPS qui permet ou non le changement de système de référence pour vous adapter aux cartes en usage en France" or "It's the GPS receptor itself that allows or doesn't allow you to change to the system of reference in use on French maps." This may just refer to older maps but it also may mean the post-'99 maps? Has anyone had any experience using GPS with French maps? LONG WINTER WALK WITH DOGS? - My husband and I plan to travel in France in Dec and Jan with our 3 dogs and we are hoping you can advise a good place to start our walking adventures. We will be starting in Paris and want to then take a train or bus to the starting point of a good walking path. We want to walk for a month or two and camp or hostel wherever possible. please let me know what you think and what you can advise and where I can find a detailed map/guide to these paths.I have been reading your info pages quite intensely..., and I see that there is possibly some problems with rural dogs that may chase or threaten us. Well since we are travelling with our own 3 dogs, do you think we will have any problems? Our dogs are friendly, mixed breeds (collie/shepherd/lab) but if threatened, they do defend. They will be on leashes at all times and muzzled in public, but I am just having awful visions of having to break up dog fights along our serene walk.... Are we the only people who will do the path with dogs? We can see (from previous info posted) the best way to get out of Paris on foot, so that question is answered BUT we are still trying to figure out what the walk will be like on the route we have chosen: We want to walk in this direction - Paris to Rouen then on into Normandy then following the coast down to Brittany and eventually down to Bordeaux and winding up in Nice. For this route, can u tell us which GR topo guides we should have? and if this route is ok for winter walking? and how long we should anticipate to complete it in? and would we be crazy to camp out along this route? We are canadian and used to some cold campouts! Can we camp anywhere we like along the path if there are no campgrounds open? Can we make campfires anywhere along the path to have hot tea in the middle of the day, or a supper time fire? We plan to order the guides we need as soon as we get the list that we need to order. I have already ordered IGN 903 for an overview but it's putting together the individual sections of this route that I need help with. cheers – Gillian B., Canada, 1 September '01 – From BLeF - Your itinerary is an ambitious one and would take quite a few months to complete. In comparison I would point out that most people take 3 to 4 months to walk the GR 5 from the Dutch coast to the Mediterranean. Your proposed itinerary is considerably longer than that route, though of course you will not be walking the full length of the French Alps as those on the GR 5 do. See my GR 5 page for some comments from those who have done very long walks in France. Also, the book Walking Through France by Robin Neillands, isbn 1-85253-312-9, published in 1994 by the British publishers Ashford, Buchan & Enright would give you further info about long walks in winter-early spring weather. On your itinerary you will probably only encounter heavy snow in the high Languedoc and high Provence in the winter (again, there are comments about walking these areas in winter on the website). However, the weather in Normandy and Brittany can also be very stormy in winter with persistent drenching rains and extremely high winds—not great camping weather. As to camping, this could be difficult. See the Index/Contents page of my website to find some comments. I would add that you will probably find most campsites closed. Many farmers will certainly give you permission to camp but getting that permission is absolutely necessary. I think you would find that building a fire would be a lot of trouble and perhaps impossible since 98% of the land you will be crossing is private, and many landowners would undoubtedly object to a blaze or even a smolder on their land. You rarely see burn marks along the trail. Camping stoves are a different matter and seem to be tolerated. Happily rural cafes are everywhere and you will find at least one or two (and often many more) every day where you can retreat into the heat for a tea, coffee or (my favorite) hot grog. Walks in France are through land that has been used for many centuries—it is definitely very different than what you find in Canada. Walking in France is far from a wilderness experience. With your dogs on leash you should have little trouble with loose French dogs. Probably no more than a lot of barking. As I suggest on the website and in my book, I would also carry a walking stick. And, yes, others do walk with dogs, though it is not very common. French cafes, restaurants and most hotels are very tolerant of well behaved dogs. As for the topo-guides you will need, once you receive map 903 and then choose your exact route, I would suggest that you go to the FFRP website at www.ffrp.asso.fr to research those guides that are available. As you'll see on my "Maps" page, you can order them from US sources. LODGING IN MONASTERIES? - Does your book (or do you) have information on monasteries that offer lodging/retreats in France? Such a book exists for Italy, but I haven't found one for France.– Barbara C., California, 27 May '01 back to top INFORMATION ABOUT THE PARC DES GRANDES CAUSSES? - After enjoying my walk in the Cevennes so much last August (see entry), I am returning with my wife in September 2001 to walk a commercial tour starting from St.Affrique near Millau,walking via Roquefort, St Eulalie, Causse du Larzac, Fondamente, Abbaye de Sylvanes and back to St. Affrique. Have any other walkers done this circuit either with "la Ligne Verte" or with any other company.? We are looking for a relatively easy walk with maximum exposure to country food, interesting history, beautiful unspoiled countryside and plenty of interesting villages to explore. Any comments on this region would be welcome. Especially useful would be advice on books or websites which might give us a deeper appreciation of the area. I read French reasonably well. Received a copy of France on Foot last month and am finding that it stimulates my enthusiasm more than ever. Are there any other walkers from Australia or New Zealand out there who wish to share their experiences?– Brian M., Aukland, New Zealand, 21 January '01 – From BLeF - The French regional parks site at www.parcs-naturels-regionaux.tm.fr/lesparcs/index_en.html has quite a bit of information about the history, towns and culture of this region. Just a click on the Causse park will bring it up. Does anyone know of any other sources of information? NORTH AMERICAN SOURCE? - Is there any source in North America where the walker can conveniently buy the Logis and the two Gîtes de France guidebooks? SOURCES OVERSEAS? - What is the availability of French maps and guidebooks in Canada?In Australia? In New Zealand?e-mail your questions and comments to walk@franceonfoot.com back to top UPDATES MAIN PAGE * GENERAL UPDATES ABOUT WALKING IN FRANCE |
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– Dwight Garner, postcard from the trail, 1998 |